Clean Wood Floors of Cincinnati by Heritage Hardwood Floors, Inc.Ohio State Flag
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Wood Vents * Medallions, Corners, Borders & Features * Custom Parquet Flooring Patterns
Prefinish Floor Fillers *WoodWise Wood Patch *Zar Latex Wood Patch * Minwax Wood Putty
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How to install wood vents. * How to fill the gaps. * How to install, sand,astain and coat a hardwood floor.
Looking for:Hardwood Flooring Contractor in Columbus or Cleveland Ohio? .Index of: 48 Cincinnati area Home Builders?

Dustless Wood & Hardwood Floor Sanding & Finishing.
Northern Kentucky & Cincinnati, Ohio
Heritage Hardwood Floors is now using dustless wood floor sanding methods!

Why don’t wood floor finishing contractors publish their specifications for wood floor finishing?
Some wood floor finishing projects are unique, requiring a sanding process and tools specific for that job.
The majority of wood floors can sanded and finished using the same sanding process and tools.
We refer to these floors as Typical, covering most new construction and residential resands.

This page depicts the sanding and finishing methods that we use.
First read “Conventional Wood Floor Sanding” below this section.
The top of this page describes the changes that we made to our process when we started doing dustless wood floor finishing.

Dustless does not mean no dust, just less.
We still use Lägler built Hummel belt sanders, but have added a Trio rotating disk sanders and Cyclone vacuum systems connected to all of our Clark/Alto edgers and Fein hand sanders.

Before sanding, fill the floor with latex wood floor filler, Wood Wise or Zar.
It's good to have the wood floor installers fill the floor right after installation.
Sand the body of the floor with 50 grit belts on a Lägler Hummel.
Sand the edges with 100 grit sanding disk on an Alto/Clark edger.
The edges can be sanded before, during and after using the Hummel.
Note that the dust bag has been removed from the edger and the edger has a hose attaching it to a Cyclone vacuum system sitting outside.
The corners can be scraped anytime after edging and before hand sanding
Inspected and filling the floor for a second time.
Any newly applied filler needs to dry and be sanded with a Fein hand sander, attached to the Cyclone vacuum system.
Sand the floor with the Trio using 60 grit, 80 grit and 100 grit sanding disks.
An alternate method is to sand the body of the floor with the belt sander twice, first with 50 grit and then with 80 grit. Using this method only requires one sanding with the trio using 100 grit disks.
Hand sand, using a Fein random orbit sander with 80 or 100 grit sand paper, along all walls and anywhere the Trio couldn't get.
The floor is ready to vacuum and stain.

Conventional Wood Floor Sanding
Northern Kentucky & Cincinnati, Ohio

Get an early start. Good light is preferable when sanding wood floors, so get an early start. Inspect the floor carefully, pull out or counter-sink any protruding nails, cleats or staples. On rare occasions it is necessary to use 36-grit or 16-grit sand paper to do the first cut to a wood floor. Usually we do the first cut with 50 grit paper. There are 3 types of floor sanders, 220-volt belt sanders, 220-volt drum sanders and 110-volt tilt drum sanders. The latter is the type that most tool rentals carry.
Sand floor for the first time. We prefer the Lägler Hummel, it's a 220-volt, 8- inch wide belt sander. Always run a floor sander close to the direction of the wood grain, between 15 & 30 degrees. The belts and drums of most floor sanding machines are pitched to create a cutting edge and a feathering edge. You will start sanding with the feathering edge toward a wall and the cutting edge toward the center of the floor. The pitch of a floor sander can be changed and adjusted, most floor sanders are set to cut from right to left.
LÄGLER Hummel sanders are not pitched, therefore you can sand a floor in either direction.
Sand the edges. After completing the first sanding operation with the drum or belt sander, use an edger to sand along the perimeter of the floor and any other areas the drum or belt sander did not reach. The preferred edger is an Alto (Clark) American Supper 7 or B2, both are 8-inch disk sander. Use 80-grit sanding disks, in most cases you only need to edge the floor once.
When sanding new floors the shoe molding should not be installed until after the floor is finished.
When sanding a previously finished floor, it's often advisable to remove all or some of the shoe molding prier to sanding. With experience and a well-tuned edger it is possible to leave the shoe molding in place and sand up to it.
Filling the floor. During or after the floor is edge sanded it's time to fill the floor. General filling of nail holes, gaps, gouges, blemishes, cracks, etc., needs to be done with a commercial wood floor filler such as ZAR. ZAR is a latex filler that is oak colored, easy to sand and will take a stain. ZAR can be thinned with water and dries quickly. ZAR will shrink when it dries, so large voids will need to be filled twice, allow drying time between applications.
Sand the floor for the second time. Once the floor has been completely filled and the filler has dried thoroughly its time to do the second cut to the floor. This cut, sand, is basically the same as the first. The only difference is the grit of the sandpaper or sanding-belt. We use 80-grit sanding-belts to cut the floor for the second time. Since the first cut of the floor got the floor level and smooth, the purpose of this second cut is mostly to remove the latex floor filler and the scratches produced by the first.
Hand scrape the corners and around jambs and cassings. Then next step in wood floor sanding is hand scraping. Scraping is necessary to prepare the floor in all of the small areas that an 8 inch edger disk can not reach, such as: inside corners, around door casings and jambs, up to cabinet kick plates, next to and behind toilets, around sink pedestals and the sloping surfaces of reducers. We use generic wood handles with 1½-inch wide RED DEVIL scraper blade kept sharp by a STANLEY NO. 6 File, mill bastard.
Hand sand areas sanded withe the edger to blend with the body of the floor. Although the body of the floor and the edges of the floor were sanded with the same grit sandpaper, the edges are slicker. The edger cuts across the grain producing a surface that is more polished than the area sanded with the drum or belt sander. Also the edger will leave sander marks in the floor that do not go with the direction of the grain. Staining the floor in this condition will produce a floor that has a lighter color around the walls that is loaded with dark little arced scratches.
To remove the arced scratches and to produce a surface texture that is more similar to the main body of the floor it is necessary to do some hand sanding with 50-grit paper. By hand sanding I mean a powereful electric vibrating sander. Sand all areas that have been edged or scraped.
Sand the floor for the third time. Okay, it's all down hill from here. The third and final cut to the floor is done with a 120-grit, 150-grit or 180-grit sanding screen. Put the sanding screen on the floor, lay a 3M white, red or maroon pad on top of it and set a plastic or wire bristle buffer head on top of that. Using a heavy floor buffer running at low to medium speed, buff the floor overlapping each path by 50 percent. This will smooth out the wood floor surface while leaving enough tooth for the finish to grab.
Vac the floor. Vacuum the floor using a clean or new vacuum filter. Start out by running the vacuum hose or wand, with the vacuum head remover, along the baseboard or shoe molding. If your wand is metal apply masking tape onto the outer edge to avoid metal marks on the raw floor or baseboard. Attach the vacuum head and clean the balance of the floor. Make sure that your vacuum head has either soft bristle or felt bottom edger to avoid scratches or metal marks on the floor.
At this point the old timers will want to tack clean the floor with a paint thinner soaked towel wrapped around a push broom. We don't do it, its unnecessary.
Coat the edges with a brush. Now were ready for an oil-based penetrating stain. How to STAIN After the stain dries, or if the floor is to be natural, it's time to apply the first coat of polyurethane. The edges are coated first using a wide brush. As long as the stain is not moving, it doesn't matter how the polyurethane is applied as long as its eventually stroked with the grain direction and coated fare enough out into the floor to allow the lambs wool applicator to not touch the baseboard.
First coat on the main body of the floor. The balance of the floor must be coated while the edges are still wet. Slow down the coating of the edges as needed. Pour small amounts of oil-based polyurethane onto the floor and distribute it evenly using a natural lamb's wool applicator. Keep a sharp eye out for drips, heavy spots and skippers. Imperfections can be touched up before the polyurethane begins to tack dry by walking out onto the wet floor. After this coat has dried for 48 hours a second coat can be applied.

Shipping Charges: Current UPS Ground rates originating 452XX plus $.75 per item handling.
To Navigate: Choose a Product Catagory or Subject Link below.********Go to shopping cart
Home *Cleaners * Protectors * Installing * Sanding * Stains* Polyurethane * Safety & Comfort
Wood Vents * Medallions, Corners, Borders & Features * Custom Parquet Flooring Patterns
Prefinish Floor Fillers *WoodWise Wood Patch *Zar Latex Wood Patch * Minwax Wood Putty
Waxs & Wax Floor Cleaners *Unfinished Wood Flooring * Photoghaphs or Our Work*
How to install wood vents. * How to fill the gaps. * How to install, sand,astain and coat a hardwood floor.
Looking for:Hardwood Flooring Contractor in Columbus or Cleveland Ohio? .Index of: 48 Cincinnati area Home Builders?